The Prince and the Dressmaker

A primary theme of The Prince and the Dressmaker is gender-expansive self-expression through the medium of fashion. “Gender expansive” refers not only to identities outside the gender binary but presentations that subvert or ignore prevailing gender norms—represented in the novel primarily by Sebastian, as well as several secondary characters whose clothing doesn’t conform to traditionally gendered stereotypes. Meeting Frances and becoming inspired by her designs for Crystallia provides a catalyst for Sebastian that propels his arc toward an expansive understanding of his own identity.

Creating the persona of Crystallia with the help of Frances’s designs allows Sebastian to access and express elements of his personality that he’s not yet ready reveal to his family and community. Crown Prince Sebastian is depicted in the first half of the novel as self-conscious and overly concerned with living up to others’ expectations. According to Juliana, Sebastian is different from the other princes she has met—he’s “sweet, [he’s] considerate. [He] listen[s] to people” (82). At the start of novel, Sebastian fears that this difference means he isn’t the type of prince that his family and his kingdom want—concerns that motivate him to keep parts of himself hidden. As Lady Crystallia, the character becomes more assertive and confident.