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On October 22, Diana sits in her office at Howard University in Washington, DC, and thinks about Kendra Rae, who has recently been sighted in New York. Diana secretly wishes Kendra Rae is dead so she can’t see how much Diana has sold out.
Diana receives an emailed article from Imani with the headline, “Longtime Editor in Chief of Wagner Books Donates Hefty Chunk of Change to Diversity Campaign” (278). She detests Richard’s fixation with public opinion and understands that Kendra Rae poses a significant threat to his image. Diana studies a photo of Richard with Hazel, the “Lead Conditioner [they’d] redirected from Cooper’s to Wagner” (278), and thinks about their decades-long affair. Diana resisted when Richard, or “Dick,” paired her with Kendra Rae on Burning Heart to capitalize on the commercial appeal of a Black author/editor duo. Diana believed that audiences would hold the book in higher regard if an influential white editor were involved, but Richard was right that “Black everything is in” (279), and the book was a massive success.
Diana prints a list of women who need “fixing” and considers telling Richard that she wants out. However, Diana is the only connection between Richard, who provides funding, and Imani, who provides the chemical formula for a hair grease that modifies Black women’s behavior. Diana recalls the first time she introduced the product to Richard in 1983, just after Kendra Rae’s interview. Richard insisted that Kendra Rae publicly apologize, but Diana suggested they “manage” her in a different way. She mentioned Imani, who received a PhD in chemistry from George Washington University and whose product “make[s] the lives of Black women all over the country just a little bit easier” by “chill[ing them] out a little bit” (282, 283), or making them more compliant with their white bosses. Although he was initially skeptical, Richard eventually began to share the names of other Black people whom his white colleagues characterized as “difficult,” and the project commenced.
Imani appears in the office doorway and asks with disapproval if the women on the list are “Involuntaries.” Diana retorts that Imani’s formula shouldn’t make Black women so competitive, and Imani replies that she’s working on a new honeysuckle-scented batch that should balance them out. Diana ruefully remembers the harsh chemistry of their first formula, which burned Kendra Rae’s scalp.
Meanwhile, Nella and Malaika discuss Nella’s near-encounter with Shani while huffing through a Pitbull-themed workout. Malaika chastises Nella for agreeing to meet with a stranger and is even more perturbed when Nella describes Shani’s abduction. Nella reports that after the sedan drove away, she witnessed someone in a hood retrieve Shani’s phone from the trash, and she later received a call from the same number. The woman on the other end refused to answer any of Nella’s questions but sent a photo of Hazel wearing a “COOPER’S MAG” sweatshirt and urged Nella to “Do some more digging” to find out “who Hazel really is” (289).
Malaika is deeply concerned, causing Nella to feel a pang of guilt for the strain she’s put on her relationships with Malaika and Owen. Nella barely speaks to her boyfriend and works during their meals together. Owen attributes the change in Nella’s behavior to Hazel. He assumes that she resents Hazel because Nella is no longer “the only Black girl at work” (293). One night this assumption triggers an argument in which Owen likens his occasional experience of being a racial minority in their social circle to Nella’s daily experience as a Black woman, and the argument ends in awkward silence.
Nella changes the subject by telling Malaika about the potential Jesse Watson project. Malaika empathizes with Nella’s frustration at the idea of being paired with Hazel and wonders whether Nella should finally quit. Malaika advises Nella to go out with a bang, to sabotage the meeting by announcing Wagner’s racist history and practices, thus presenting herself as the only Black editor Jesse Watson could possibly trust. Nella is shocked by her friend’s advice, so Malaika pivots to point out that it will be difficult for Hazel to effectively code switch in a meeting with Richard and Vera and a radical blacktivist. She suggests that Nella “wow the pants off Jesse Watson” by presenting herself as more authentically Black than Hazel (301), which will make him demand to work with Nella alone. Nella considers this option optimistically.
On October 25, Nella and Malaika stand outside the brownstone building where Hazel, Juanita, and Manny live. Nella has convinced a reluctant Malaika to attend the natural hair party and act as a distraction while Nella searches for evidence that might explain Hazel’s suspicious behavior and multiple identities. Hazel opens the door and greets them, calling Malaika by the wrong name. Hazel leads them through a hallway where Malaika spots a photograph of all four of Hazel’s grandparents, taken in 1963. Nella freezes, remembering that Hazel previously said her grandfather was killed at a protest in 1961. Realizing her mistake, Hazel quickly recovers by clarifying that one of the men in the photograph is her step-grandfather.
They continue to the living room, where Hazel introduces Nella and Malaika to the rest of the party guests, again introducing Malaika by the wrong name. Malaika responds with a series of snide comments that make Nella cringe. Nella curiously regards the other Black women at the party—Ebonee, Camille, and Kiara—who seem to be surrounded by stereotypically white cultural signifiers: They date men from Missoula who “[look] fresh out of a Patagonia ad” (310); they flip through subscriptions of the New Yorker, the Atlantic, and Harper’s Bazaar; they snack on blue corn tortilla chips and Wheat Thins. Nella learns that the women are all Hazel’s mentees. Nella muses that Hazel has collected them “like a handful of Black girl Tamagotchis” (317).
Nella sits down in front of Hazel, who offers her a choice of head scarves before starting to work Smooth’d Out, an unlabeled grease, through Nella’s scalp. Nella eases back and thinks about the profound physical intimacy of Black women doing one another’s hair, until Malaika interrupts by asking to read the grease’s label. After an awkward pause, Hazel replies that there isn’t any label and the recipe is secret. She finishes wrapping Nella’s head scarf, and the others admire her work. Grasping her opportunity, Nella excuses herself to use the mirror in the upstairs bathroom.
Once upstairs, Nella rushes into Hazel’s bedroom to search for evidence. As she rummages through the closet and scans the dresser, she notices that the room has a bland orderliness that is “not unlike [Hazel’s] cubicle desk” (321). Just as she finds a manilla folder in a cabinet under the TV, Nella receives a text from Malaika: “Two coming up for bathroom. Code Kente” (322), meaning no one suspects anything yet. Nella switches off the bedroom light and mentally prepares an excuse in case she is caught.
Using only the flashlight on her phone, Nella thumbs through the contents of the folder. It contains a stack of sheets with the names and faces of different Black women along with meticulous notes. To her horror, Nella finds a sheet on Kendra Rae Phillips and one on herself, which is labeled with a sticky note: “Seems complacent enough; but more efforts won’t hurt—order of 8 jars coming in 10/20” (324). Nella snaps a few photos and hears a toilet flush. One of the younger Black women from the party wonders aloud where Nella is, and another asks if Nella is an “Involuntary.” Both scoff at the idea that a Black woman wouldn’t want Hazel’s help. Nella counts to 10 twice and slips out of Hazel’s bedroom.
On the way home from the party, Nella shows the photos to Malaika and explains that the names on the files are the same names Nella read on the list on the printer at Wagner. Nella believes these women are being targeted and involuntarily “converted to something” (326). A quick review of the handwritten notes on their bios confirms her suspicions: They had each undergone transformation, such as “blaccents” corrected and “ungratefulness” reversed. Nella’s own bio characterizes her as “complacent” and estimates that the “estimated time until cycle completion [is] ~4 months” (328). Nella recognizes the handwriting as Richard’s and realizes that the “Kenny” she overheard him whispering about was Kendra Rae. She worries that Richard and whoever is behind the conversions will “deal with” Nella the way that they “dealt with” Kendra Rae. Alarmed, Malaika urges Nella to text the photos to Shani’s number. Nella agrees, telling her friend she will send them after she gets home.
The following day, Nella arrives at work to find Jesse Watson already there. He invites Nella to sit next to him, but she declines, thinking Richard or Vera might prefer that seat. Jesse shrugs, and Nella worries that she seemed too deferential to her white bosses. She attempts to recover with a joke about spreading out the “Black folk,” and Jesse appears even more offended. He lights up, however, when Hazel arrives and sits next to him.
When the editors ask Jesse to describe his project, Nella interjects, wondering which social justice issues he will explore. Jesse replies that he’d prefer to focus on a more positive topic, such as two cops from different backgrounds who “teach each other things, despite their differences” (336). Baffled, Nella studies Jesse’s appearance, noticing he looks “washed out” with his clear glasses frames, tidy beard, and well-greased hair. Nella realizes he has been converted and looks up to see Hazel wearing “a look of smug, unbridled triumph” (337).
Nella excuses herself to the bathroom, and Hazel follows. Hazel knows that Nella saw the files and is aware of Richard’s and her plans to manipulate Black women. Hazel pulls out two different formulas of hair grease—Smooth’d Out and Kink Free—and explains that they act as “social lubricants” that “[numb] the ventromedial prefrontal cortex” to make Black women “more amenable when it comes to working for and with white folks” (340). Nella retorts that the grease forces them to compromise Black values and their ancestors would be disappointed. She accuses Hazel of being an “Uncle Tom,” and Hazel responds by claiming that it’s easier to lean into a stereotype to achieve certain goals. Nella asks about the “Involuntaries,” and Hazel replies that eventually everyone loves the effects of the grease. She persuades Nella to “stop fighting the tide” and consent to conversion (343), claiming it will be easy since Nella used the grease for months. Confused, Nella says she only applied the grease once, and Hazel laughs, speculating that conversion was that much easier because Nella “gave up on [her] convictions a long time ago” (345). Nella realizes she never texted the photographs that might have freed Kendra Rae and knows that this decision was “the nail in her coffin of irresponsible Blackness” (354). Sensing that Nella has made her decision, Hazel hands her a jar of grease to prepare her for transfer to another publishing house. As they return to the meeting together, Nella reflects on how free and happy Jesse now appears. She can’t recall ever feeling that way.
It’s January 2019, and Shani now works at Scope Magazine in Portland, Oregon. She’s drafted a well-supported article that contains undeniable evidence collected from the Resistance and from her own records that OBGs have been manipulating Black women all over the country for decades. Shani prepares to email the article to her editor, Gwen, who she believes will privilege it for next-day publication. Before hitting send, Shani leans back in her chair and thinks about her last conversation with Kendra Rae, who also seemed ready to disobey the Resistance’s rules and leak information about OBGs. Shani hasn’t heard from Kendra Rae or the Resistance in months and wonders what happened to them.
After mentally cataloguing the risks and benefits, Shani hits send and is surprised when her email bounces back. She notes that Gwen’s office is dark. Reagan, one of Shani’s white coworkers, observes Shani’s confusion and informs her that Gwen received a short-notice offer to participate in a prestigious research study in Missouri. An interim editor is scheduled to take her place. Shani is devastated by this news since Gwen’s absence will delay her publication plans.
Just as Shani asks when Gwen will return, the interim editor strides into the office: a confident young Black woman with “a chic, asymmetrical bob that [is] perfectly, painfully, straight” and a “nauseating, syrupy odor” (353, 354). The woman introduces herself as Delilah Henson, but Shani recognizes her as Nella Rodgers. When Nella asks for Shani, Reagan happily complies. Nella tells Shani she’d like to discuss her article and, after Reagan leaves, puts a hand on Shani’s shoulder to assure her that, “You can be real with me, sis” (354).
In the final chapters, Harris weaves together clues from the first three parts of the novel to reveal the secret of Smooth’d Out: Richard supplies the money, Imani supplies the formula, and Diana supplies the connections to send a network of “Lead Conditioners” all over the United States armed with mind-numbing hair grease to convert Black women into OBGs. As Diana ruefully reflects on her part in the scheme, we learn that she and Imani initially intended to “make the lives of Black women all over the country just a little bit easier” by making them numb to the “waves of racism” they must wade through every day (282). This impulse emphasizes the challenges they still face as Black women, despite Kendra Rae’s earlier assumption that Diana and Imani had it easier at Howard University.
As Diana’s chapter ends, her excitement over the new honeysuckle-scented formula shows that she and Imani continue to voluntarily use Smooth’d Out to soothe their own traumas; however, they also select “Involuntaries” like Nella who they suspect will not accept their “help.” This method of “helping” those without their consent mirrors white savior attitudes used to justify colonialism and chattel slavery, in which land, labor, and liberty were stolen from Black Africans and Black Americans by white people who claimed to be helping them. Diana’s sharp response when Imani voices her disapproval of targeting “Involuntaries” indicates that, at some level, Diana is aware of her role in perpetuating the intergenerational oppression of Black people.
Part 4 also leads up to the climax and final confrontation between Nella and Hazel. Following Diana’s admission that Smooth’d Out numbs Black women’s minds, the natural hair party in Chapters 16 and 17 is especially foreboding, particularly when Nella leans back to have Hazel massage Smooth’d Out into her hair. However, Nella’s discovery of the files and her revulsion at learning Richard’s role in her imminent conversion offer hope that Nella will not succumb to the Smooth’d Out spell.
By Chapter 19, this hope subsides as Nella voluntarily chooses to become an OBG. In a final horror genre twist, Harris reveals that Nella isn’t numbed by Smooth’d Out, but instead had the capacity to become an OBG all along. Like a true OBG, Nella exhibits overly competitive behavior: Instead of fleeing after she discovers Hazel’s secret, like Kendra Rae and Shani did, Nella remains in Manhattan and attends the Jesse Watson meeting in order to “beat” Hazel. Nella now feels a numbness toward social justice issues: She no longer retweets Black activists, and she “declined her boyfriend’s proposal to go see a documentary about wrongful incarceration” (345). Finally, Nella has become a young woman “so obsessed with success—and with taking down any Black [woman] who [gets] in [her] way” that she betrays her childhood hero (229): She “held the key to freeing Kendra Rae from hiding” and chose not to share it (345).
The Epilogue, in which Nella appears with an OBG makeover just in time to thwart Shani’s plans, cements Nella’s inevitable fate. From the moment they identify as “mug twins,” the novel hints that, as doppelgangers, Nella and Hazel’s lives will eventually converge. The novel’s unresolved ending, however, leaves Shani’s fate open. Will she escape once again or will she, like the rest, grow tired of fighting against the tide? The novel ends on this suspenseful note, leaving the future open to the reader’s imagination.
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