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From the Zamoras’s traditional family dinners, to Abuela’s mango batidos, to Aunt Tuti’s “legendary” (143) churros, food serves as an important motif in the novel, signifying the nurturing that sustains families and communities. Abuela and Abuelo opened their first restaurant, a small luncheonette, where many Cuban immigrants lived, and it provided “comfort food to a whole group of people who longed for a taste of home” (129). La Cocina de la Isla likewise serves its Cuban neighborhood familiar foods from Cuba, and thereby nourishes and strengthens the common cultural roots of the community.
As sharing and enjoying food strengthens family and community ties, it is noteworthy that Wilfrido deprives his employees of the foods they crave. When Arturo and Carmen find Claudio near tears while eating cake, he explains, “I haven’t had sugar in two years. Wilfrido […] forbids his assistants from gaining even one pound” (216). Wilfrido is the nemesis of traditional communities in several ways, including restricting the enjoyment of food.
Abuela’s floribunda bush symbolizes her faith that by treating others with genuine care, one can help them flourish and reach their potential. Although she assiduously tends to the bush, ensuring it has everything it needs, it has never bloomed.
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By Pablo Cartaya