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Roughing It covers an immense amount of geographical space. While it principally concerns the West and Pacific Coast, it also dips into the Hawaiian islands. Although Hawaii is still a sovereign nation at the time of Twain’s visit, it would eventually be incorporated into the United States, and its position at the close of this narrative presents it as the logical endpoint of westward expansion. In the mid-19th century, many Americans saw the West through the lens of frontier mythology, as a place of limitless possibility and danger. The extremes of the western landscape, with its immense mountains and hostile deserts, stood as a synecdoche for the romanticized ideals of adventure and self-invention that attached to the mythologized frontier. In his travelogue, Twain both punctures and embellishes these romanticized notions of landscape.
While Twain is primarily known as a humor writer, he also offers physical description of the various places he visits, and his impressions reflect attitudes that were common among 19th-century easterners exploring the American West for the first time. He is impressed by the sublime grandeur of the Rocky Mountains and the health-giving atmosphere surrounding Lake Tahoe, repulsed by the harsh deserts of the Great Basin, and skeptical of the dubious claims made by land-speculating boosters like newspaper magnate Horace Greeley.
Twain writes sometimes with lyrical horror and sometimes with hyperbolic humor about the challenges of life in the deserts west of the Rocky Mountains. Passing through the dry expanse west of Salt Lake City, he notes how far the reality of the desert falls short of his romantic expectations:
The sun beats down with dead, blistering, relentless malignity; the perspiration is welling from every pore in man and beast, but scarcely a sign of it finds its way to the surface […] there is not a living creature visible in any direction whither one searches the blank level that stretches its monotonous miles on every hand (84).
His criticism of the landscape is even stronger when he reaches Mono Lake with its toxic waters. Carson City seems to be little more than a dustbowl that is afflicted on a regular basis by the dust-laden winds of the “Washoe Zephyr.” His hyperbolic prose describing this daily affliction conjures images of Dorothy caught in a Kansas twister: “A soaring dust-drift about the size of the United States set up edgewise came with it, and the capital of the Nevada Territory disappeared from view” (95). In both its beauty and its dreadfulness, Twain’s American West is larger than life, a place where nature unfolds on a scale unimaginable to his readers back east.
Virginia City is represented as a city within a city. The silver mines that have been tunneled directly below town are an immense labyrinth where thousands of men toil daily. In assessing the landscape, Twain is acutely aware of the natural resources that each area holds. Like his contemporaries, he has a tendency to view these resources as virtually unlimited and ripe for exploitation. When he and a companion accidentally start a wildfire in the timber around Lake Tahoe, Twain doesn’t seem particularly worried about the ecosystem he has just destroyed. Rather, he goes on to his next venture, confident in the limitless resources of nature.
The quest for gold in California has already created numerous ghost towns, and Twain seems aware of the consequences of gold fever even as he is unable to resist its allure. When he suffers a downturn in his personal fortunes, he goes prospecting in a region of the state that has already been depleted of its rich ore deposits, leaving skeleton towns in its wake. Twain uses prose as a landscape painter might use paint to depict the light and shadows of the golden West.
As he passes through the vast and varied landscapes of the American West, Twain crosses paths with an ethnically diverse cast of characters, all of whom have been affected in widely varying ways by the economic volatility of the frontier—an ambiguous, constantly shifting zone of colonization, resistance, and migration in which fortunes are lost as fast as they are made.
Twain’s encounters with Indigenous tribes provide stark evidence of this economic volatility, as Western land is rapidly becoming a valuable commodity, to the detriment of the Indigenous peoples who have lived on that land for millennia. Twain’s disparaging description of the “Goshoot Indians” of Utah begins by comparing them unfavorably to a global litany of other Indigenous peoples, all of whom he also disparages. The people he terms “Goshoots” are now known as the Goshute people (in their own language, Kutsipiuti, meaning “people of the dry earth” or “people of the desert”), a tribe who had lived in what is now Utah and eastern Nevada for centuries before their first encounters with Mormon settlers. By the time of Twain’s arrival in the early 1860s, the tribe had endured roughly two decades of conflict in which white settlers, with the help of the US Army, had steadily pushed them off all the most favorable parts of the already challenging land in which they lived. When Twain disparages the Goshute people as “lean, small, ‘scrawny’” (146), he is unwittingly describing the results of a very recent, engineered famine arising from displacement and land theft.
In the mining boom town of Virginia City, Nevada, Twain finds a city of more than 15,000 people sprung up out the desert as if overnight, fueled by the short-lived economic largesse of the Comstock Lode, a large deposit of silver in the ground underneath the city: “Money was as plenty as dust; every individual considered himself wealthy, and a melancholy countenance was nowhere to be seen” (305). He details the long list of businesses and civic institutions that have grown up around the mine, drawing people and industry to an arid and inhospitable mountainside in the Nevada desert. As a reporter for the local paper, Twain soon becomes theoretically rich in mine stock, given to him by prospectors eager to have their finds written up in the paper. Later, when the mines run dry, this speculative wealth evaporates along with much of the wealth of the town.
Twain devotes a chapter to the community of Chinese immigrants in Virginia City, drawn there by the abundance of work. He remarks that such communities exist in “every town and city on the Pacific Coast” (391)—the constantly shifting economies of the West are driving mass movements of people across geographical space, and with that movement comes both cultural transformation and racist conflict. Twain’s portrayal of Chinese Americans is often patronizing, deploying stereotypes of industriousness and docility, but he is sharply critical of the legal system that affords them none of the protections offered to their white neighbors: “Any white man can swear a Chinaman’s life away in the courts, but no Chinaman can testify against a white man” (391).
Twain’s miners are emblematic of the West as a place of promise and danger—one that draws young people looking for opportunities not available elsewhere and willing to bear the attendant risks. They tend to be young adventurers who left the East to seek their fortunes in the highly speculative pursuit of mining for gold or silver. It should be stressed that this subgroup is entirely male and generally youthful. They take foolish risks that more often lead to disaster than glory, but Twain admirers them nonetheless when he says, “It was an assemblage of two hundred thousand young men […] No women, no children, no gray and stooping veterans,—none but erect, bright-eyed, quick-moving, strong-handed young giants” (415). Even as he writes Roughing It, Twain knows that this strange band is passing into history and that he is singing its requiem.
The lure of quick (if not exactly easy) riches soon does its work on Twain as well. Even though he begins his journey to the West with no other idea than a pleasure junket, he soon becomes infected with silver and gold fever. His financial hopes are dashed multiple times, but these disappointments only echo the pattern of Twain’s high hopes being dashed by reality at every turn. Initially, we see the young adventurer enthused by his stagecoach journey, until he comes into contact with the roughs who run the stagecoach stations. They serve vile food along with a helping of surly attitude that diminishes Twain’s joy in the trip. After arriving in Carson City, he finds that his job as unpaid assistant to the territorial secretary isn’t all it’s cracked up to be. The town is a bare-bones affair, and his office is a bunk in a boarding house.
Twain’s dreams of possessing a gallant steed are deflated by the purchase of a “Genuine Mexican Plug”—in reality, an intractably wild horse that bucks at every attempt to ride him. The author’s ambition to become a lumber baron is also disappointed when he accidentally sets fire to the patch of forest that he owns. His forays into mining prove just as unsuccessful. The trip to Mono Lake in search of an elusive cement mine never pans out. Staking a claim to a silver mine in Esmeralda very nearly makes Twain’s fortune, but the foolish lack of coordination between Twain and his partners to work the claim in time results in another failure.
Twain strikes genuine pay dirt when he finally gets a job as a reporter in Virginia City. His prospects are further improved when he receives stock certificates in several silver mines. Once again, his inflated expectations cause him to behave foolishly. Rather than cashing in the stock before the silver boom ends, Twain goes off to live the high life in San Francisco. He soon learns that his stock is worthless, and he is once again forced to dodge poverty. Afterward, he chooses another speculative venture by panning for gold in California. He encounters many other miners who think they are only one day away from a big strike, but their hopes are always disappointed.
Yet again, luck intervenes to rescue Twain when he is sent to Hawaii as a newspaper correspondent. The trip provides wonderful material for Roughing It, but Twain returns penniless after his six-month job ends. Taking one final gamble, he rents a hall and gives a lecture about his travels. This is every bit as risky as panning for gold. Fortunately, the lecture is well received, and Twain goes on to a successful career as a writer and lecturer.
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By Mark Twain