Reflections on Fieldwork in Morocco

In Chapter 7, Rabinow describes a ceremony at the shrine of Sidi Lahcen. The shrine is the site of two yearly museums, religious harvest festivals attended by local Berber tribes. These tribes and other groups also visit the shrine throughout the year, offering sacrifices in return for blessings. Rabinow looks forward to attending these events; he sees them as a view into how Islam is actually practiced by rural Moroccans.

Most Moroccans are happy to share what he calls “standard Islam” with the anthropologist. He has fruitful conversations and observations surrounding major Muslim holidays, such as how and why specific people celebrate Ramadan. Men are happy to discuss the Koran, eagerly debating its meaning regardless of their familiarity with its actual text. Even some of the mainstream mystical versions of Islam, like the Aissawa, are relatively easy for Rabinow to access. The topic of Sidi Lahcen is regularly avoided, though. At first he thinks the topic is another mysterious taboo, but he eventually realizes that most Sidi Lahcen Lyussi residents are simply embarrassed that they don’t know much about the legends or actual life of their founder and most important historical figure.

The anthropologist also notes a distinct indifference toward the activities at the shrine.