62 pages 2 hours read

Land of Milk and Honey

Fiction | Novel | Adult | Published in 2023

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Character Analysis

Unnamed Narrator/“Eun-Young”

Zhang’s first-person narrator and protagonist, a chef, is never named. She is an old woman in the framing narrative of the Prologue and the end of Chapter 12, while the rest of the novel describes her life when she turns 30.

The narrator repeatedly describes herself as a “hungry ghost” (3, 188), a term that comes from Chinese Buddhism. This negative self-image is the result of the narrator’s childhood. Her unnamed mother was born in China and immigrated to California, where she married a Korean American man who walked out on her and their daughter. The narrator attended the University of California, Los Angeles but dropped out to become a chef. Her mother disapproved of this choice because she disliked the pretention of haute cuisine and believed in eating to survive and enjoying cheaper pleasures, like peanut butter on jian bing. The narrator’s mother died before the start of the novel. Their unresolved and troubled relationship causes her to become “hungry for a connection [she] s[ees] in Aida’s cheekbones, her tidy nose” (26), identifying all the more strongly with the only other Asian woman on the mountain.

The romantic and sexual relationship between the narrator and Aida is complicated in several ways. First, Aida is the daughter of the narrator’s cruel and elitist employer, whom she sometimes disparages but ultimately supports and refuses to disobey. Second, the narrator takes on the role of Eun-Young, Aida’s missing mother, to convince guests on the mountain that her employer didn’t murder the real Eun-Young. The narrator’s impersonation of Eun-Young includes being “always in white” (94), pretending to turn 42, being very religious, and only speaking imitation Korean (which the narrator doesn’t actually know). As Eun-Young, the narrator is not only the head chef who serves Sunday dinners but also “serve[s] the assurance that this mountain [i]s neither vulgar nor sinful but holy, a return at least to the original garden where life could be lived without shame in the sun” (93). In other words, the narrator assures the donors that they are, essentially, good people and that their financial contributions to the mountain project absolve their sins.

Over the course of the novel, the narrator experiences disordered eating, consuming too little and then too much in the eyes of her employer. For the narrator, food and cooking are tied to emotion and her interpersonal relationships. Before the smog, she was fired for allowing a diner at her restaurant to choke on a bird bone; she was distracted after the death of her mother. When she first arrives on the mountain, her sense of taste has been affected by the loss of most types of food, other than gray mung-bean flour. Although her employer offers her the chance to cook with ingredients that can’t be found anywhere, the narrator can’t eat the food she makes because she feels alienated and oppressed by the rarified environment. It is only after the narrator and Aida begin their sexual relationship, and specifically after Aida asks about the narrator’s appetite, that the narrator begins to enjoy food again. When Aida’s work keeps her away from the narrator and they disagree about the ethics of eating the human-like golden chimps, the narrator begins overeating as a way of compensating for her loneliness and guilt. Gaining weight as a result ends up being freeing, as the narrator grows too big for Eun-Young’s clothes, leaks the secret of her real identity, and escapes the mountain with a generous severance.

Thirty-nine years after she leaves the mountain, the narrator has had relationships with both men and women and has become a successful restaurateur and philanthropist, creating a foundation for women in the food industry and having a daughter whom she raises alone. The narrator “name[s] [her] daughter after no one” (225), but in the third generation, being unnamed seems like a way to leave many options for a future open, rather than being limited like the narrator or her mother. Despite her many triumphs, the narrator never stops looking for Aida.

Aida

Aida is the narrator’s love interest and foil. Aida’s father was born poor on an Italian island and is implied to have Romani ethnicity, and her mother, Eun-Young, was born in Korea. While the narrator and Aida are similar in that they each have one Korean parent, they were raised in dramatically different socioeconomic classes. While the narrator and her mother were poor, Aida’s father raised Aida in a “bubble of privilege” (71), although he himself “did not grow up with [his] daughter’s privileges” but became wealthy in his adult life (158). Aida originally wanted to be a dancer, and Eun-Young supported this dream. However, her father convinced Aida to become a scientist instead. Before going to live on the mountain, Aida was working on her postdoctoral degree in evolutionary biology at the University of Milan. She meets the narrator when she is 20 years old.

At first, Aida seems to have no restrictions: The narrator thinks that Aida “flout[s] so many rules that [she]’d believed her free, by right of wealth and singular ferocity, from the stereotypes that trap[] [the narrator]” (141). Aida drives fast convertibles, trains dogs, and has authority in the secret labs. She is insatiable when it comes to food, often testing the narrator’s recipes and eating for pleasure rather than health, as her “palate [i]s at root a child’s, craving the rich and the sweet” (123). Aida’s position as the daughter of the narrator’s employer complicates her romantic relationship with the narrator, as does the fact that the narrator has to pretend to be Aida’s mother during Sunday dinners. Nevertheless, their sexual connection is at first very strong.

A rift develops between the women after Aida doesn’t intervene when her father assaults the narrator at Kandinsky’s request. She prioritizes her father’s wishes, especially his plans for Mars colonization, over the narrator’s physical safety. The romance completely deteriorates after Aida hits a child with a car in Milan but is not punished after her father uses his influence to circumvent the police. When the child dies, the narrator’s employer promises to pay the family, but it is the narrator who ends up giving the child’s family the money decades later.

Despite the car accident, the narrator asks Aida to run away with her as she leaves the mountain. Aida refuses, and she presumably dies when the spaceship ascending from the mountain explodes. However, the narrator hopes that Aida did not board the ship and looks for Aida in the places that they said they wanted to visit together, Seoul and Beijing, for as long as she lives.

Aida’s Father/the Narrator’s Unnamed Employer

Aida’s father, the narrator’s employer, is also never named. He makes millions as “a prophet of doom” (25), profiting from natural disasters and exploiting the vulnerable. When the narrator meets him, he is in his fifties and has darker skin than most of the people on the mountain, “though his hue verge[s] to artificial orange and he w[ears] so much makeup it [i]s hard to tell” (96). He hides that he comes from an Italian island with a large “Romani population” (158), as well as other details of his past. Aida’s father is socially awkward and has a grating voice, and his “authority [i]s built on fear” (76). He is also a reformed smoker with a poor sense of taste, so he leaves most choices about the menu to Aida. However, he insists on serving extreme and almost fantastically rare foods, like woolly mammoth and golden chimp, to impress his donors.

To the narrator, her employer seems inhumane: His “cold black eye” reminds her of predatory animals (72). This turns out to be the case, as he often becomes violent, assaulting the narrator at Kandinsky’s request and attempting to suffocate her when she leaves the mountain. When the narrator reveals her true identity to the meteorologist, she learns that her employer killed his first wife, Eun-Young, the woman he wants the narrator to impersonate during guest meals. He planted the grass that smells like honey, which she loved, out of guilt: “Every blade was the mark of a guilty man” (202).

Aida’s father is thus the main antagonist of the novel. He is also a relatively flat character, undergoing no psychological or emotional change throughout the novel. Instead, “there [i]s no body behind the mask. He [i]s the demeanor of a person forced to grow up servile, until the mask became he” (158). Her employer’s performance is his only personality; there is no depth to him.

Roman Kandinsky

The world’s richest man is also the only character who has a first and last name—a choice that Zhang makes to show his class difference from even the wealthy elite that populate the mountain: “Even to the wealthy he was so wealthy to be a different species” (136). Kandinsky “affect[s] the swagger of the West Coast tech elite” (137), which positions him as a man whose extreme privilege exempts him from standard behavioral expectations. Aida and her father spend much of their time trying to get Kandinsky to donate to their space project, as well as be a part of it. Kandinsky’s wealth also enables him to demand to satisfy his amoral and predatory urges. When he finds a hair in his food, he reveals himself to be a violent sexist: He refuses to be satisfied with Aida and the narrator groveling for forgiveness and requests that the narrator’s employer beat her. Around the time that the narrator leaves the mountain, Kandinsky pulls out of the Mars colonization project. There is speculation that this plays a role in the spaceship’s explosion.

The Meteorologist

The unnamed “Iranian meteorologist” is another character concealing his true identity (109). When the meteorologist still thinks that the narrator is Eun-Young, he flirts with her to try to secure his place on the Mars colonization list. When the narrator reveals her real name to him, the meteorologist admits to actually being from Los Angeles. After identifying herself, the narrator gives her spot on the list to the meteorologist to convince him to leak the truth about who she is. Once this information gets out, the narrator is able to escape the mountain and get severance. In their last conversation, the meteorologist gives the narrator advice on places to eat in Los Angeles. He is one of the casualties of the spaceship explosion.

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